Hi crochet friend! 🧹 Before you start making this Halloween witch, I want to share a quick note about the tutorial. The photos and explanations in this free article were prepared from a video tutorial we made ourselves. We made the project and worked through the details carefully, then turned that process into a written guide that you can follow here for free.
Everything written in this article is free. You can read the instructions, follow the photos, learn the techniques, and make your own crochet witch on broom without paying for the article. If you learn better by watching the actual hands, stitches, shaping, and finishing details, we also offer the complete video tutorial in our store for a small, symbolic price.
If you want the full video tutorial, click here to see it in our store.
Crochet Witch on Broom Pattern – Free Amigurumi Tutorial
Hi there, crochet friend! 👋 If you love Halloween and want to make something cute and spooky, you're in the right place. In this tutorial, I'll show you exactly how to crochet an adorable witch on a broom — step by step, with clear photos, so even if you're a total beginner, you'll be able to follow along easily.
This little witch makes a perfect Halloween decoration, keychain, or gift. She works up pretty quickly once you get the hang of the stitches, and I'll explain every single step in detail so you never feel lost.
Isn't she cute? You can make her in any color combination you like — purple and green, orange and black, or whatever matches your Halloween decor. Now let's get started!
What You'll Need
Before we begin, make sure you have everything ready. Having your materials prepared will make the process much smoother:
- Yarn: Worsted weight (medium) yarn in your chosen colors — purple, green, orange, black, or any Halloween-themed combo
- Crochet hook: Size 2.5mm to 3mm works best for this small amigurumi
- Stitch marker: This will help you keep track of where each round starts (very important for amigurumi!)
- Yarn needle: For weaving in ends and sewing pieces together later
- Scissors: To cut your yarn
- A small stick or skewer: This will become the broom handle
- Stuffing (fiberfill): To give your witch some shape and volume
Quick tip: If you're new to amigurumi, don't worry about getting the yarn tension perfect right away — it gets easier with practice!
Step 1: Make a Slip Knot
Every crochet project starts the same way — with a simple slip knot. This is the very first loop that goes onto your hook, and it's the foundation for every stitch that follows.
To make it: create a loop with your yarn, then pull a bit of yarn through that loop using your hook. Pull gently until the loop tightens around your hook — not too tight, though, or it'll be hard to work with. The knot should slide up and down the hook smoothly.
Don't worry if it takes a couple of tries to get it right — this is completely normal, and once you've done it a few times, it'll become second nature.
Step 2: Create a Magic Ring and Increase (11 dc inc)
Now we're going to make what's called a "magic ring" — this is a special starting technique used in almost all amigurumi projects. It creates a small, tight circle that you can pull closed later, so there's no hole in the center of your work.
Once your magic ring is made, you'll crochet 11 double crochets into that ring. This is written as "11 dc inc" (11 double crochet increases), and it's exactly what's shown in the photo below — each stitch is worked directly into the ring, one after another.
As you work these 11 stitches, you'll start to see the ring fill up and take shape into a small circle. Keep your stitches snug but not too tight — this will form either the hat or the body base of your witch, depending on which part you're working on.
Tip: Use your stitch marker on the first stitch of the round so you always know where your round begins and ends. This is a lifesaver in amigurumi!
Step 3: Finish the Round and Secure Your Yarn
Once you've completed all 11 stitches, it's time to finish off this piece. Cut your yarn, leaving a tail of about 6 inches (15 cm) — this tail will be useful later for sewing pieces together.
Pull the cut end all the way through the last loop on your hook to secure it, so your stitches don't unravel.
And there you have it — your very first piece is complete! This small, tightly-stitched circle is the beginning of your witch's hat or body, and you'll build on it in the next steps.
Step 4: Change Color with a Slip Stitch
Now that your first purple circle is complete, it's time to add a pop of color! We're going to switch to green yarn using a slip stitch join. This technique is super common in amigurumi whenever you want to switch colors cleanly, without any bulky knots showing on the front of your work.
To do this: take your new green yarn and, without cutting your purple yarn yet, insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over with the green yarn and pull it through both the stitch and the loop already on your hook — this creates your first slip stitch (1 sl st) in the new color, as shown in the photo below.
Don't worry if this feels a little fiddly at first — color changes always take a bit of practice to get smooth. The key is to keep your tension even, so the transition between colors looks clean and neat rather than loose or puckered.
Tip: Leave a short tail of your purple yarn hanging for now — you'll weave it in later once the piece is fully finished. No need to cut it too short just yet.
Step 5: Crochet the Green Border Round
With your green yarn now attached, continue working single crochet stitches all the way around the outer edge of your purple circle. This will create a neat green border that frames the piece beautifully — think of it like a colorful trim around the edge.
Work each stitch into the stitches from your previous purple round, going all the way around until you reach where you started. Keep your stitches consistent in size so the border looks even all the way around — this small detail makes a big difference in how polished your finished piece looks.
Once you've gone all the way around, you'll see your circle now has a beautiful two-tone look: a purple center surrounded by a soft green border, just like in the photo below.
Isn't that a satisfying transformation? This two-tone circle is really starting to look like a proper amigurumi piece now, and you're building real skills with every stitch — color changes, borders, and round shaping all in one small piece!
Step 6: Prepare Your Yarn for the Hair Loops
Now we're moving on to one of the cutest parts of this pattern — the hair! Before we start stitching, take a moment to twist your green yarn strand tightly between your fingers, like shown in the photo below. This isn't a stitch yet — it's just prepping the yarn so it holds its shape better once we start working the loop stitches for the hair.
Twisting the yarn slightly like this helps the loops sit up nicely instead of laying flat, which gives the hair a fuller, more textured look once it's finished. Take your time with this step — it seems small, but it really does make a difference in the final result.
Tip: If your yarn keeps untwisting on its own, try dampening your fingers slightly or working a bit slower. It just takes a little practice to get a feel for it.
Step 7: Crochet the Hair Loop Pattern
This is the step that creates those adorable curly hair loops you can see in the finished witch photo. It looks complicated at first glance, but it's really just one repeated sequence, over and over. Here's the stitch pattern:
* 1 sc, 14 ch, 2 sl st, 8 sc inc, 3 sl st * repeat 5 times
Let's break this down piece by piece, so it makes complete sense:
- 1 sc — Start with one single crochet stitch into your base. This anchors the beginning of each loop.
- 14 ch — Chain 14 stitches. This chain is what will become the long "strand" of hair, so don't pull it too tight — keep it relaxed so the loop has a nice curve.
- 2 sl st — Work 2 slip stitches back along the chain. This helps close up the base of the loop and keeps it secure.
- 8 sc inc — Work 8 single crochet increases along the chain. This is what gives the hair strand its fuller, textured look — instead of a thin flat chain, you're building it up with extra stitches.
- 3 sl st — Finish with 3 slip stitches to close off this loop neatly and move into position for the next one.
Once you finish this full sequence one time, you'll have made one complete hair strand. Now here's the important part: repeat this exact sequence 5 times total, working your way around the head base. Each repeat creates one more strand of "hair," and by the time you've done all 5, you'll have a full, wavy head of hair circling the head piece.
Tip: Don't rush through the 5 repeats. Take it one strand at a time, and count your stitches carefully on each repeat — this stitch combination is easy to lose track of if you go too fast. It's totally normal for this step to take a while; that's just part of amigurumi!
Step 8: Add the Front Bangs (4 hdc)
With the main hair loops done, we now need a few extra stitches at the front to create soft "bangs" framing the face. For this, work 4 half double crochet (hdc) stitches along the front section of the head base, right where the face will be.
These 4 hdc stitches are shorter and denser than the loopy hair strands, which is exactly what gives that soft, rounded "bangs" look at the front — a nice contrast to the longer curly strands around the rest of the head.
Take a look at your piece now — you should be able to see the fuller hair strands framing the sides and back, with these shorter bang stitches softening the front edge. It's really starting to come together!
Step 9: Attach the Wooden Bead Head
Now for the magic moment — attaching the face! For this pattern, we use a small pre-painted wooden bead as the head, which already has the adorable winking face design on it (you can find these beads online or paint your own with a fine-tip marker if you prefer a custom look).
Take your finished hair piece and gently place it over the wooden bead, positioning it so the bangs sit just above where the face is painted, and the hair loops drape naturally around and behind the bead. You may need to adjust and reposition a couple of times to get the hair sitting just right — that's completely normal, so don't worry about getting it perfect on the first try.
Once you're happy with the placement, use your yarn needle threaded with a matching color to secure the hair piece to the bead with a few small, discreet stitches on the inside/back, where they won't be visible from the front.
Look at that adorable face! 🥹 With the hair secured around the wooden bead, your witch is really starting to come to life. This little character with her wavy green hair and sweet winking expression is honestly one of the most charming parts of the whole project.
Step 10: Start the Legs with a Magic Ring
Time to move on to the legs! Just like we did for the head, we're going to start with a magic ring in purple yarn. This creates a tight, adjustable loop that becomes the base your leg will grow out from.
Hold your yarn between your fingers as shown, wrap it around to form a ring, and insert your hook through the center to pull up your first loop. Keep a gentle grip so the ring stays loose enough to work into, but not so loose that it falls apart.
This might feel like a small, fiddly step, but getting a solid magic ring here is important — it's the anchor point for the whole leg, so take an extra second to make sure it's secure before moving forward
.
Step 11: Work Your First Single Crochet (1 sc)
Now, work one single crochet stitch into the magic ring. This is simply inserting your hook into the ring, yarning over, and pulling through both loops — one clean stitch, shown clearly in the photo below.
This single stitch is the very starting point of the leg — from here, everything else builds outward. Don't tighten the ring completely just yet; we'll pull it snug once we've placed a few more stitches into it.
Step 12: The Leg Pattern (This Is the Tricky Part — Take It Slow!)
Okay, this next stitch combination looks intimidating at first, but I promise it's very manageable once you break it into pieces. Here's the full pattern for one leg:
1 sc, 16 ch, 4 ch, [4 tr] in 4th ch from hook, 16 sl st * repeat 2 times
Let's go through it slowly, one part at a time:
- 1 sc — One single crochet into your magic ring (this is what we just did in Step 11).
- 16 ch — Chain 16. This long chain is what will become the length of the leg itself, so keep your chain stitches relaxed and even — not too tight, or the leg will curl awkwardly.
- 4 ch — Chain 4 more. These extra chains will form the little foot/toe shape at the end of the leg.
- [4 tr] in 4th ch from hook — Count back 4 chains from your hook, and work 4 treble crochet stitches all into that same chain stitch. This little cluster is what creates the rounded "foot" bump you can see forming in the photo — it's the same technique used for the little green pom-pom feet shown at the bottom of the finished piece.
- 16 sl st — Now work 16 slip stitches back down along your original 16-chain. This closes up the chain into a solid, finished-looking leg strand instead of leaving it as a loose chain.
That entire sequence makes one complete leg. You'll see the beginning of this process in the photo below — notice how the different colored chains (purple for the leg, green for the little foot detail) start to take shape.
Now here's the key instruction: repeat this entire sequence 2 times total, right into the same magic ring base. This gives your witch two legs, both growing out from the same starting point — exactly like how the finished piece will hang with two dangling legs.
Tip: This is genuinely one of the more advanced parts of the pattern, so don't get discouraged if your first leg doesn't look perfect. Count your chains carefully (a stitch marker on chain #16 can help), and remember — slight imperfections in amigurumi legs are barely noticeable once the piece is finished and stuffed!
Step 13: Check Your Progress
Once you've completed both leg repeats, take a look at your piece — you should see two dangling leg strands coming from your central magic ring base, with little rounded foot shapes at the ends of each, like shown in the photo below.
This is genuinely one of the most satisfying parts of the whole pattern — seeing those two little legs dangling is when the piece really starts to look like a character rather than just yarn and stitches!
Step 14: Twist the Yarn for the Broom Bristles
Now we're moving on to a fun part — making the broom! We'll start the same way we started the hair earlier: by twisting a strand of purple yarn tightly between your fingers, as shown in the photo below.
This twist prepping step matters more than it looks — it helps the yarn hold its shape once we wrap it into bristles, so the broom ends up looking full and textured instead of flat and limp.
Take your time twisting it evenly along the whole strand length — a consistent twist will make the next step much easier to control.
Step 15: Wrap the Yarn Around Your Fingers
Next, wrap your yarn around two or three fingers multiple times, building up a bundle of loops like the one shown below. This bundle is what will become the bristly, fanned-out bottom part of the broom — the more wraps you do, the fuller and thicker your broom bristles will look.
Keep your wraps snug but not too tight around your fingers — you still need to be able to slide the bundle off comfortably once you're done wrapping. Aim for a good, dense bundle; this is one part of the pattern where more volume genuinely looks better.
Tip: If you want a fuller broom, simply add more wraps here. If you prefer a slimmer, more delicate look, use fewer wraps. This step is very forgiving, so feel free to adjust to your own taste.
Step 16: Secure the Bundle with Your Hook
Once your bundle of wraps is ready, carefully slide it off your fingers while keeping the loops together, and use your crochet hook to catch and secure the center of the bundle — this is what holds all those loops together as one unit, shown in the photo below.
Be gentle here so the loops don't slip apart before you've secured them. Once your hook has caught the bundle firmly, you're ready to attach it properly in the next step.
Step 17: Attach the Bundle to Your Yarn
Now, pull your working yarn through the center of the bundle to tie it off and hold everything in place, just like shown in the photo below. This locks all those wrapped loops together into one solid bristle section, ready to be shaped into the broom.
Give it a gentle tug to make sure it's secure — you don't want the bristles coming loose later on.
At this point, your bundle should feel firm and well-attached, with all the loops staying together as one piece.
Step 18: Insert the Broom Handle
For the final touch, take your small wooden stick or skewer (this will be the broom handle) and insert it carefully into the center of your yarn bundle, pushing it through so it sits securely in the middle of the bristles, as shown below.
Wiggle the stick gently to make sure it's snug and won't slide back out, and adjust the yarn bristles around it so they fan out evenly on all sides.
And just like that — your little broom is complete, ready to be attached to your witch in the final assembly!
Step 19: Chain 4 for the Hat Point
Now for one of the most iconic parts of our witch — her pointy hat! We're going to build this using a series of small chains and stitches that create a curled, spiral-like point. Start by chaining 4, as shown in the photo below.
Keep these chain stitches loose and relaxed rather than tight — this will make it much easier to work stitches back into them in the next steps, and it helps the final point curl naturally instead of sitting stiff.
Step 20: Chain 3 More
Next, chain 3 additional stitches, continuing on from your first 4. This might seem like we're just making one long chain, but these small chain "sections" will actually become reference points for where we build up stitches in a moment.
At this point you should have a short chain hanging from your work — don't worry, it looks like just a plain string right now, but it's about to transform in the next step.
Step 21: Work 5 Double Crochets (5 dc)
Here's where the magic happens! Work 5 double crochet stitches back into the chain, building them up close together. Stacking multiple double crochets like this into a small chain base is exactly what creates that curved, cone-like shape you can see forming in the photo below.
As you work these 5 stitches, you'll actually feel the piece start to curl and take on some dimension — this is completely normal and exactly what we want. The stitches naturally want to curve because there are more stitches packed into a small space than the base chain can lay flat.
Step 22: Complete the Point (Total: 6 Stitches)
Continue until you reach a total of 6 stitches in this section, as marked in the photo below. This total count matters — it's what gives the hat point its proper proportions, not too short and stubby, not too long and floppy.
Take a look at what you've made so far — you should be able to see a small curled point starting to form, kind of like a little witch hat tip already, even before it's attached to anything. Pretty neat how a few simple stitches can create such a specific shape!
Step 23: Check the Finished Hat Shape
Once this section is complete, your piece should look like the rounded, textured shape shown in the photo below — this is the base of the witch hat, ready to be built upon or attached to the head in the next steps.
Notice how the stitches create that slightly bumpy, textured surface — this is a really satisfying part of the pattern because you can already recognize the hat shape taking form, even at this early stage.
Step 24: Sew the Hat Point Closed
Now that we have our curled hat point piece from the last part, it's time to secure it properly. Thread your yarn needle with the tail end of your purple yarn, and weave it through the top stitches of the point, as shown in the photo below.
Pull the needle through a few of the top stitches and gently tighten — this closes up any small gap at the very tip of the point and gives it that neat, finished peak you see on a classic witch hat. Take your time here; this small detail makes a big visual difference in how polished the final hat looks.
Once it's snug and secure, weave the needle through a couple more stitches to lock everything in place before moving on — you don't want this coming loose later after all your hard work!
Step 25: Attach the Point to the Hat Brim
Now we're going to join the pointy top piece to the wider green-and-purple brim base — this is what transforms two separate pieces into one recognizable witch hat shape.
Position your curled point piece on top of the brim, right in the center, and use your working yarn to stitch it securely in place. Insert your needle or hook through both layers a few times around the base of the point, making sure it's centered and standing upright rather than leaning to one side.
Check that everything feels stable before securing your final knot — give it a gentle wiggle to test. If the point flops over too easily, add a couple more reinforcing stitches around its base.
Step 26: Insert the Support Stick with Hot Glue
To help the hat point stand up nice and tall (instead of flopping over once it's finished), we're going to reinforce it from the inside using a small wooden stick and a touch of hot glue.
Carefully insert your stick into the center of the hat point, pushing it up from the base toward the tip. Add a small dab of hot glue at the base where the stick meets the brim to lock it firmly in place, as shown in the photo below.
⚠️ Safety tip: Hot glue guns get very hot — work slowly, avoid touching the glue directly, and keep the glue gun away from children if they're helping you with this project. A small amount of glue is all you need; too much can seep through the stitches and show on the outside.
Let the glue cool and set fully for a minute or two before handling the hat again, so everything stays firmly in place.
Step 27: Check Your Complete Hat Shape
Take a look at your hat now from the side — you should see a beautifully curved, upright point sitting on top of the wider green-trimmed brim, exactly like the photo below. This is officially your finished witch hat!
Doesn't it look amazing? The combination of the sturdy inner stick and the soft curled yarn on the outside gives you that classic, slightly whimsical witch hat silhouette — floppy enough to look handmade and charming, but sturdy enough to hold its shape.
Step 28: Attach the Hat to the Head
Now let's bring together two pieces you made earlier: the hat, and the head with hair we finished back in Part 3. Position the hat on top of the head piece, adjusting it so it sits at a slight, playful angle — this little tilt is what gives the witch her charming, characterful look rather than sitting stiff and straight.
Take a moment here to compare the two pieces and decide exactly how you want the hat angled before securing anything permanently — this is your chance to give your witch her own unique personality!
Step 29: Secure the Hat with Hot Glue
Once you're happy with the positioning, apply a small amount of hot glue to the underside of the hat brim where it meets the head, and press firmly in place for a few seconds until the glue sets, as shown below.
Hold it steady and don't let go too early — hot glue sets fast, but it needs those first few seconds of firm pressure to bond properly. If you prefer, you can also add a few small stitches underneath for extra security, especially if this piece will be handled often (like a keychain).
Step 30: Final Assembly — Bring It All Together!
This is it — the moment everything comes together! Now take all the pieces you've made throughout this tutorial: the head with hair and hat, the body, the two legs from Part 4, and the little broom from Part 5, and assemble them into your complete witch.
Attach the legs to the bottom of the body so they dangle naturally, and position the broom so it looks like your witch is "riding" it — tucked under one arm or between the legs, depending on the look you want.
Use hot glue or a few secure stitches at each connection point to hold everything firmly together.
And just like that... look at her! 🧙♀️✨ Your adorable crochet witch on a broom is complete, from that very first slip knot all the way to this finished character with her wavy hair, pointed hat, dangling legs, and broom. Take a moment to really appreciate how far you've come — every single stitch, color change, and tricky repeat pattern led to this moment.
Whether you're hanging her as a Halloween decoration, turning her into a keychain, or giving her as a handmade gift, you should be so proud of what you've created. Happy crocheting, and happy Halloween! 🎃
Enjoyed This Free Crochet Tutorial?
I hope this free witch-on-broom tutorial made the project feel approachable and fun. We created this blog to give crochet lovers a place where they can discover seasonal projects, read the instructions, follow the photos, and learn without paying for the written tutorial.
Everything in this article is free. You can take your time with each section, return to a step whenever you need, and enjoy making your own Halloween decoration at your own pace. We want these free tutorials to be useful whether you are an experienced crocheter or simply trying something new.
If you prefer a visual explanation, we also made a complete video tutorial ourselves. Watching the project being made can be helpful when you want to see the exact movement of the stitches, shaping, assembly, and finishing details. The video is available in our store for a small symbolic price. Click here to see the video tutorial.
You are also very welcome to visit our store and explore our other Halloween crochet tutorials. We hope you find another project that inspires you and that you enjoy creating it as much as we enjoyed making it.
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